After a five week stay in Rome's Trastevere quarter in May of 2010, we'd like to pass along some impressions of notable restaurants and food items that we encountered.
With our stay extending into May, everything springtime and local were to be found in restaurants and food markets. Artichokes were everywhere - and in restaurants they were usually prepared either
alla romana or
alla giudia style. One of the best versions of the latter came from
Da Giggetto across the Tiber from Trastevere where we saw some of their afternoon staff preparing piles of artichokes for evening service.
We were told that the spring artichoke is grown around Rome and contains little if any choke whereas those harvested in the fall come from Sicily and do contain the choke.
Two other unusual spring vegetables rarely seen in this country :
puntarelle and
agretti. Puntarelle is a light green curly chicory, slightly bitter and, in traditional Roman style, tossed with an anchovy vinaigrette. We especially liked
agretti. A succulent plant native to the Mediterranean basin, agretti tolerates salt water (in fact, it grows in salt marshes) and resembles thick blades of grass (see picture). It is a great alternative to spinach and is easy to prepare. Just boil in salted water for a few minutes, drain well, then warm up with olive oil, salt and garlic as a topping for pizza or add lemon as a spinach substitute. We were able to find seeds from a U.
S. supplier (
www.gourmetseed.com) and Charlie Baer, who grows many of our summer vegetables, planted the seeds a few weeks ago and we're hopeful that something will come up.
Two guidebooks (
Food Wine Rome by David Downie &
The Food Lover's Guide to The Gourmet Secrets of Rome) were helpful in sorting through the many eating opportunities in this small section of Rome's historic district. One of the stores recommended by both is
Antica Caciara, a cheese shop on Via San Francesco a Ripa off the main piazza in Trastevere, Santa Maria. It's a pleasure to shop there, not only for the extensive selection of cheeses, cured meats and condiments, but because the third generation family members that run the store are helpful, friendly and clearly love their work. Another place not to be missed, especially for its local color, is the bakery
Forno la Renella on Via del Moro. Open seven days a week, it turns out an endless supply of just-baked bread, pizza bianca, other flatbreads with toppings that change daily and an assortment of rustic sweet things. We particularly liked their rustic loaves. Since everything is sold by weight you can ask for a half loaf of bread without upsetting anyone.
Rome's historic center is packed with restaurants, and Trastevere has more than its share. The ones offering pizza will often also offer classic pasta dishes, e.g., Cacio e Pepe or Alla Amatriciana. Of the many we tried, several stand out. They are roughly ordered by price from less to more expensive. The going exchange rate in May 2010 was roughly $1.25 to the euro. Of course, an average check can vary widely, depending on the wine, how many courses you select, etc. We did notice a number of dishes split between diners and most restaurants happily accommodate such requests. Unless service is included, a standard tip can range from 10 to 15%; with extraordinary service justifying 20%.
Da
Augusto Piazza de’ Renzi 15 Mentioned by many guidebooks, natives and tourists line up outside the doors before the dinner hour and when they open everyone scrambles for a seat musical chair style. The restaurant has a diner-like feel with casual service (our bill was calculated on our paper tablecloth) and cheap prices. Primi consisted of two choices: Rigatoni or Spinach Ravioli with choice of a classic Roman sauce: Cacio e Pepe, Amatriciana, Pomodori. Secondi offered more choices. We tried a few different veal preparations & a sausage with beans dish. All were unexceptional. The house red was nearly undrinkable Only 4 glasses were supplied for the wine & when we asked for 4 glasses for the bottled water they would give us only one glass and told us to share it! Less than 40 euros for two including the aforementioned wine. Pastas good, secondi below average.
Food 6/ Staff 5/ Value 8
Ivo al Trastevere Via San Francesco a Ripa 158 A brightly-lit dining room filled with local families, students and tourists . The food, though acceptable, did not thrill. Appetizers of potato croquettes & fried olives stuffed with meat were just OK. Pizzas ordinary; not up to the reviews. But the friendly efficient staff and reasonable prices made up for aforementioned shortcomings. Around 35 euro for two with house wine.
Food 7/ Staff 9/ Value 9
Da Gildo Via della Scala 31 Da Gildo has a comfortable, welcoming feel and we returned several times. Often shorthanded in the dining room, the harried manager and single waiter remained calm, friendly & accommodating. Pizzas above average. Two outstanding salads: one with thinly sliced pears and provolone cheese on arugula and another very simple combination of sliced oranges tossed with an olive tapenade.. Some pastas, though well made, were dry. Excellent pasta amatriciana. Decent house red. 40 -50 euro for two.
Food 7-8/ Staff 8/ Value 8
Monzu Vladi in Trastevere Piazza di San Giovanni della Malva 2 features Neopolitan food. Two friendly personable owners run the dining room. One of the best dishes during our entire stay in Rome was their Sartu di Riso, a rice timbale filled with meatballs, pork sausage, peas, and mushrooms. But take note: they generally require at least a day's notice to prepare the dish but one can call ahead to see if it will be on the menu. Other notable items: Rigatoni with ragu, Veal scallopine with lemon, Neopolitan beef rolls. The kitchen also turned out two very good fresh homemade dolci: chocolate cake & ricotta pie. 70 to 80 euro for two with a bottle of Nero di Avola.
Food 8/ Staff 9/ Value 8
Le Mani in Pasta Osteria Via dei Genovesi 37 Located in a quieter section of Trastevere south of Santa Maria Piazza, the dining room seemed a bit crowded but, on the positive side, all their food was reliably quite good and the waitstaff competent and knowledgeable. Notable dishes included a nicely varied, prepared to order antipasto plate of mozzarella and cured meats. Another, one of our most memorable meals of our five week stay, was their spinach gnocchi served with out-of-shell tiny clams, bits of tomato & shreds of radicchio in a butter enriched seafood broth (pictured). Another exceptional dish (also pictured) was their exceedingly simple preparation of pistachio-encrusted rare tuna
serv
ed with homemade mayonnaise. Both pastas we tried, one sauced arrabiatta style, the other, cacio e pepe, were well made. For dessert one standout was an unusual delicious creme caramel layered with chocolate surrounded by pear sauce. 60 to 90 euro with bottle of Tocai.
Food 9/ Staff 8/ Value 9.
Da Giggetto isn't in Trastevere but is a five minute walk across the Isola Tiberina located alongside the historic Portico D'Ottavia in the Ghetto. Often mentioned by the guidebooks, da Giggetto tends toward old world formal dining with white jacketed waiters and a labyrinth of smaller dining rooms. Carciofi alla Giudia, Fried Bacala & Fried Fiori di Zucca (zucchini blossoms) were excellent. Entrees, too, were well executed and very good: eggplant parmesan, cacio e pepe, rigatoni with fungi, seafood risotto, veal involtini and an outstanding amatriciana. 80-100 euro for two with a bottle of mid-priced red wine.
Food 9/Staff 8/Value 8
Taverna Trilussa Via del Politeama 23 Located on a quiet street close to the river, the restaurant has a large outdoor eating area and a large well-lit dining room, jacketed waiters and formal but not stuffy service. On ordering two glasses of an Italian white one helpful waiter pointed out we could have the whole bottle for only two more euro. They offer an extensive selection of over 120 cheeses and cured meats and, in addition to typical Roman fare, a classic Tuscan chiana beefsteak. Although some dishes disappointed - a limp carcofi alla giudia, just OK mozzarella in carozza & fried zucchini flowers, a mediocre cookie plate - we had some of the best pastas of our trip, many served right in the pan. They included Bombolini alla Norcia (pictured below) - rigatoni tossed with bits of sausage in a nutmeg cream sauce,
Strangolopreti
in Osso Buco Sauce (on the left)and Ravioli Minerva - spinach ravioli in a cream sauce flecked with carrots. In the dolci department, the Torta Trilussa, a pastry crust filled with pastry cream, topped with a streusal containing diced apples, pine nuts and raisins and drizzled with chocolate was unusual and a standout (pictured). 90-100 euro with wine.
Food 8.5/ Staff 8/ Value 9
